CATCHING UP ON GARDENING QUESTIONS

Always include plants you love in the garden

Questions. I get Questions. " Ask Carolyn " has been a popular feature on my garden blog and I must admit that I'm behind in answering them. I thought I would devote today's post to some of my reader's questions.

Becky writes : I'm a new gardener with a typical small urban front and back yard. I want to do my own yard , but avoid the mistakes that most novices like myself make. Can you give me some advice ?

Where to start ? Impulse buying ( buying what you see without regard to where it'll go ), planting too close without regard of plant's ultimate size, planting without a plan, planting without regard to sun/shade conditions, planting without preparing the soil are the most common mistakes that new gardeners make.

Try breaking the process down into steps. Make a rough sketch of your garden, indicating measurements of planting areas. Draw from the perspective of looking down from above .

Step 1 : Observe the amount of sun and shade the area gets. Step 2 : Determine what kind of soil you have - sand, clay or loam and plan to improve it with amendments. Step 3 : Think of a focal point, such as a shrub or tree and where you want to place it. Visit the local garden center and talk to their specialists who are more than happy to assist you. Step 4 : Visit the library or book store and explore designs and plants that you like.

These are but a few ways you can pursue a successful garden design. Do not rush the process but take your time and enjoy it. It's important that you include plants that you love in your own garden.

Roger writes : I'm a plant hoarder. I buy a tree or shrub because I like it and always manage to find a space for it even in my tiny backyard. My garden is like a patchwork quilt. Do I need help with my addiction ?

Roger, Roger. I read somewhere that " Your garden doesn't have to be beautiful, you just have to think that it's paradise. " If that makes you happy who am I to say that it's wrong ? Of course, sooner or later, the plants themselves will let you know that they're not happy all smooshed together. I know designers that stuff plants in their garden just because they want one of a kind of everything. Like you, they collect plants.

ASK CAROLYN : READER QUESTION

Reader Larry asks : Can you tell me the correct way to plant a tree or shrub ?


Carolyn replies :

" Don't dig a dime hole for a dollar plant " is an old saying. the wisdom of which is that you should properly prepare a hole before planting. It may sound simple enough but it never fails that when I work with novice gardeners they barely scratch the surface of the soil and try to make a large plant fit into the tiny excavation.

The correct way to plant is to measure the rootball of the tree or shrub, dig the hole the same depth, and twice its diameter. Remove the plant from its container and check the roots . If it is rootbound ( the roots will be circling around instead of going down ), gently tease them out with your fingers. If the tree or shrub is B & B ( balled and burlaped ) remove all the string and burlap and any wire cages before placing in the planting hole.

Place the plant in the hole. It should be slightly above ground level. More trees die because they are planted too low. If your soil is heavy, plant it even higher. All the soil you've removed
( known as "backfill " ) should be mixed with soil amendments such as compost and then returned to the hole. If you are planting an acid-loving tree or shrub, add peatmoss or Black Forest soil conditioner to the backfill.

There's a new product out called Tree Saver that I use as extra insurance for survival in the urban landscape. It must be used at the time of planting. The urban soil is lacking in essential minerals, especially mycorrhizal fungi, which must be present if a tree or shrub is to survive . Tree Saver was developed by Planthealthcare. Visit their website for more information. Research on it shows that it has improved growth rates up to 300 % in stressed and degraded soils and transplant survival rate improvements of over 90 % increases in root growth of over 1,000 transplanted trees.

Add half the backfill and tamp down. Flood the rootball with water and let it drain. Once drained add the remaining backfill and tamp firmly to eliminate air bubbles. Add an inch or two of mulch, leaving a one inch diameter circle clear around the trunk to prevent crown rot. Water deeply.

To recap :

ASK CAROLYN : READER QUESTION

Missy writes : I would like to garden my parkway and plant flowers. I would start in the middle with tall grass. I have to leave a space next to the curb . Anyone have info on what to use or suggest a garden design for it ?

Your first consideration should be the soil in the parkway, which is usually very compacted and deplete of nutrients. In addition, do you have any large trees on the parkway ? If so, planting under them could be a problem due to their extensive root system.

If you have no large trees to deal with, then your first step, after removing the grass would be to apply compost and manure which can be purchased ( as a combo ) at most garden centers or big box stores.

If you wish to plant tall ornamental grasses in the center ( an excellent idea in my opinion )how much space do you have left that needs planting and what do you want -color, or something that would be green year round ( evergreen shrubs, etc.?) Knock Out, the long-blooming rose shrub
( June-November ) would be a great choice and other long-blooming perennials : Blackeyed Susan, Sedum ( for Fall interest ), Cone Flowers, Catmint, Ornamental Strawberry ( low ground cover), repeat-blooming daylilies ( Stellad'Oro) would also work to give you good color throughout the summer.

ASK CAROLYN : READER QUESTION

Linda writes : Bagged top soil and mulch is too expensive for the amount I need to landscape. Where can I buy topsoil and mulch in bulk for my large Chicago- garden area ?

My source is Buy the Yard in Evanston (http://www.buytheyardinc.com )

The garden mix they carry has all the ingredients you need for a good top soil - manure, compost, peat, etc. and you can also buy other products in bulk - manure and leaf compost, mushroom compost, mulch, gravel, pavers, stones and other landscape materials.

If you measure the area and indicate how deep you want the layer of topsoil they will calculate how much you need and deliver it. Be aware however that they do not cart it to your spot but drop it as close to it as possible so you should be prepared to have some helpers on hand .

ASK CAROLYN : READER QUESTION

Spring Planting by Thomas Hart Benson


Amy writes : When is it safe to plant in Chicago ?

Carolyn answers : A few weeks of good weather and people are eager to get out and plant. March was warmer than April has been thus far and I guestimate that Spring is 3 weeks early this year.

So when is the best time to plant in Chicago ? The answer depends on what you are planting. For instance if you are planting trees and shrubs you can do so as soon as the ground permits digging and before they break buds. I know that some horticulture classes will not teach this but I dare say that the trees and shrubs sitting in pots and a 2-4 foot rootball in the nursery would be much happier planted in the ground and more likely to endure a freeze, or drought .

However, I usually err on the side of caution when planting tender perennials and annuals . In Chicago the old rule of thumb is Memorial Day or late May. I've known some gardeners to plant impatients and other frost-tender annuals in April only to have them killed by late frosts.

In Chicago the dates of the last freeze vary from April 25 to May 20 and we can even have severe frosts after that .

Ask Carolyn : Reader Question

From Bill : I love Ajuga, the purple-leaf, supposedly perennial groundcover and planted a lot of it last year. This year, it doesn't appear to be returning. What's going on ?

Dear Bill : Ajuga is a "tender " perennial in our area. I love it too, and it was happily growing in my garden for six years when one especially cold winter did it in. We had a very harsh winter this year and the freeze/thaw cycle makes it difficult for shallow- rooted groundcover to survive.

I'm afraid that I'm an optimist . I usually replace it if it doesn't come back because the deep purple-blue flowers are attractive and the purple-green foilage is effective for a long time.

This year, however, I'm going to be a little wiser and look for Ajuga that is hardy to Zone 4. Two varieties - 'Catlin's Giant ' ( twice the size and impact ) and ' Purple Torch ' are two that I will be buying.

ASK CAROLYN : READER QUESTION

The Fairy Rose

Reader Nick writes : I read somewhere that it's okay to prune my Fairy Roses with shears and without regard of where the cut is to be made. Is this true ? I removed the mulch from them
( March 25 ) and now I'm wondering if I did it too early ?

Carolyn replies : Groundcover roses such as the Fairy require very little pruning and when you do it is to cut some of the old flowering wood from last year to promote fresh new shoots to grow and flower , or to control their spread.

After taking out any dead or weak shoots, cut back about 6 inches, or 25 percent, of the remaining shoots, choosing the older ones. ALWAYS try to cut just above an outward pointing bud. This is not to say that your pruning with shears will ruin your roses because they are very hardy, this procedure will just cause the roses to take longer to bud and bloom.

It's okay to remove any mulch that you might have added for winter protection, however, leave a 2-3 inch layer for preserving moisture in Spring and Summer. Also leave a one inch clearance around the crown, or base of the rose. Roses have shallow feeder roots and it's important not to let them dry out.

After pruning be sure to feed your roses and feed again in June.

ZONE 5 GARDENING QUESTIONS ? ASK CAROLYN !

My good friend and neighbor Ceci asks me for gardening advice from time to time. as well as other neighbors, and suggested that I have a question and answer feature on my blog. Thanks, Ceci . I'm taking your advice and using your inquiry as the very first.

Here is her question : I received potted bulbs as gifts in December which were beautiful in bloom, but now that they're gone can I plant them outside ?

My answer : Some expert will tell you to put them in a mesh bag and store them until Fall and then plant them. But I beg to differ. I think that the bulbs like to be in the ground where they belong. Of course, all their energy went into producing their beautiful blooms , so I put a little bone meal or bulb food in the hole when I plant. Leave any foilage remaining intact. I've experimented with planting them as soon as the ground is tillable. Sometimes they bloom the following season and sometimes it takes two .

When Chicago Tribune Garden writer Beth Botts started her garden blog last week she was inundated with questions from readers and couldn't possible work it in with her hectic schedule so she reached out to the Chicago gardening community for help. I've contributed to some of the questions and now I'll be doing my own. I look forward to hearing from fellow Chicago gardeners.

Just click on the "Ask Carolyn " icon above this post to leave a question.